Tracee Ellis Ross walks for Marni in ambitious collection during Milan Fashion Week

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Model Achol Ayor gets ready in the backstage prior a Marni Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear fashion show, during the Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 26, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

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Fashion designer Francesco Risso talks with actress Tracee Ellis Ross in the backstage prior to a Marni Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear fashion show, during the Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 26, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

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Actress Tracee Ellis Rossgets is made up by a make up artist in the backstage prior a Marni Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear fashion show, during the Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 26, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

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Actress Tracee Ellis Rossin returns from the runway in the backstage during the Marni Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear fashion show, during the Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 26, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

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A model walks in the backstage during the Marni Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear fashion show, during the Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 26, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

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Model Isabeli Fontana gets made up by a make up artist in the backstage prior to the Marni Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear fashion show, during the Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 26, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

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Fashion designer Francesco Risso gestures as he talks with Anna Wintour in the backstage prior a Marni Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear fashion show, during the Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 26, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

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Model Dara gets made up by a make up artist in the backstage prior a Marni Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear fashion show, during the Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 26, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

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Model Jack gets ready in the backstage prior a Marni Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear fashion show, during the Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 26, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

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Models get ready in the backstage during the Marni Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear fashion show, during the Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 26, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

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Models get ready in the backstage during the Marni Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear fashion show, during the Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 26, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

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Model Camilla gets made up by a make up artist in the backstage prior a Marni Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear fashion show, during the Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 26, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

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Model Antoine gets made up by a make up artist in the backstage prior a Marni Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear fashion show, during the Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 26, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

By COLLEEN BARRY

MILAN (AP) — Marni creative director Francesco Risso set up an impromptu jazz club and invited friends like Tracee Ellis Ross to model his latest collection during Milan Fashion Week previews on Wednesday for Fall-Winter 2025-26.

The idea for the collection came during a month-long residency in London with Nigerian artists Slawn and Soldier, creating for the sake of creating. Risso took up painting again, and the collaboration produced artworks that appear on some of the pieces.

“Our hands were dancing together, literally,’’ Risso said backstage.

Risso intends the ambitious collection with sculptural elements to be a sort of “seed vault” for future collections.

Oversized flowers were painted on suits, the long stems extending from the bias-cut jackets. A bumblebee sweater was a whimsical piece of knit sculpture. Wool coats puffed in the back, like cocoons.

“It’s time for reflection,’’ Risso said. “It’s time to preserve.”